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Exploring Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul, the only city to straddle two continents, is known for its blend of old and new, hip and traditional.  From days spent roaming the streets of the old city, visiting the famous sites of Ottoman glory to dancing the night away in one of the new dance clubs along the Bosphorous, you will quickly find that stereotype to be surprisingly accurate.
    Istanbul is rapidly moving towards the #1 spot on trendy vacation lists.  With the dollar to lira exchange hovering around 1.5 to 1, the city’s costs are generally on par with New York.  (You can find sleezy dive bars with 2 TL drafts, or dance alongside football stars and actors while sipping 40 TL mixed drinks.)  And though the nightlife is fascinating, that’s not why people come to Istanbul.  The real excitement lies in the bustle of Sultanahmet, the old city.  [For more on Istanbul nightlife, click here]


    Turkey has been the crossroads of humanity for as long as there have been people.  Old churches were turned in to mosques, then returned back to their old form.  Thankfully for us, most conquerors chose to simply plaster over the centuries old frescoes, leaving them mostly intact over the years.  Such is the case with the Hagia (Aya) Sofia, the most famous of sites in the city.
     From there, walk through the park that separates the church from the Blue Mosque (known as Sultan Ahmed Cami to locals).  Entrance is based on donations, and the active mosque is open to visitors outside of prayer times.  (When criticized for using 6 minarets, the same as Mecca, the Sultan paid to have a 7th installed there so as not to look overly presumptuous.)
    Up next is the Basilica Cistern, an underground chapel just south of the Hagia Sofia.  When you ascend to the city once more, have traditional Turkish meatballs, köfte, at the Sultanahmet Köftecisi, which has been open since 1920.  Most Turks will argue that it has the best köfte in town.  With bellies full, it’s time to walk to the Bazaar.  Haggling for items can be as fun as getting lost in the maze of stalls, but keep in mind that once a price is set it is in bad taste to pass on the purchase.  You can buy everything from knock-off designer items to hookas, Turkish tea sets to potted bowls with the lale (tulip) design on them.  But save your spice, tea, and lokum (Turkish Delight) purchases for the Spice Bazaar (known to locals as the Egyptian Bazaar).
    The walk between the two covered bazaars is as hectic and crazed as the bazaars themselves…the streets are lined with vendors.  If you have a strong stomach, walk through the pet bazaar on the side of the Egyptian, where you can buy leeches out of massive jars.
    Once your hands are full with trinkets and treasures, walk to the Galata Bridge in Eminönü.  There you will find a line of boat restaurants selling balik-ekmek, or fish sandwiches.  For about a dollar, you can join the hoards of locals indulging in this tasty treat.
    Make sure not to miss Topkapı Palace and harems.  This will take a whole afternoon to discover, so plan accordingly.  The harem closes earlier than the rest of the Palace complex, make sure not to miss it!  Once you’re done with your sightseeing, relax at Çemberlitaş or one of the other hamams in the area.  The Çemberlitaş bath was designed by famed architect Sinan in 1584, and laying on the marble slab you really lose your sense of time.  You will come out clean (pay the few lira extra to get bathed by a worker...the massaging scrub is worth it!) and relaxed.
    There are hotels of all sizes and price in Sultanahmet, and Tripology travel agents can help you to find the right lodging for your upcoming trip.  Many people that visit Istanbul never leave Sultanahmet, as there is so much to do there.  The remainder of the city has a much different feel than old town.  Take at least a day to expore other parts of the city and everything that Istanbul has to offer. [Read Stepping out of Sultanahmet for ideas on where else to go.]

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