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Kars and the Antique City of Ani, Turkey

by Rachel_Paiste, 09/20/2009 11:09

Category: Trip Ideas

The Antique City of Ani may be one of the most well preserved ruins in Turkey.  Ani was the first Anatolian city on the Silk Road, and had much wealth throughout the time period when it was a major center of trade.  
Though it was inhabited as long ago as 5,000 BC, the majority of the ruins you see today are of the Bargrats, early Armenian settlers.  The city gates, main cathedral, and homes in Ani date from 950-1000, which makes their meticulous preservation all the more impressive.  
    Getting to Ani is not easy, but the ruins more than make up for the trip.  You can fly from Istanbul to Kars, or fly first to Trabzon and then drive to Kars (45 kilometers West of Ani).  [Trabazon like the Sumela Monastery.]  Once you are in Kars, Ani is a quick ride east, directly on the Armenian border.
    Kars is a middle-class town that offers little for tourists.  There is a range of accommodation and some lovely restaurants like Ocakbaşi, but in reality, most people that come to Kars do so as a launching pad for Ani.

Plan at least 3 hours to truly take in all of the sites. The churches that dot the landscape offer only a small glimpse into what the city once was; at its prime, Ani was known as the “City of 1,001 churches.”
     The diamond here is the Maiden Castle and Virgin Monastery, set apart from the rest of the city on a verdant hill with steep cliffs dropping down to the Arpachay River, which separates Armenia from Turkey.  Unfortunately, due to Turkish military presence, you are not allowed to hike up to the Castle.  (The best views of it are from the Citadel.)
You can, however, hike down to the Church of the Young Girls.  It is at the base of a steep hill, so few people make it all the way down.  
     In the center of the ruined capital city is the Big Cathedral.  The dome came down during an earthquake in the 14th century, but the building is largely intact.  
     At the time of this writing the Church of Tigran Honents, housing preserved frescoes, is undergoing renovations and is technically closed to visitors.  If you ask nicely, though, the soldiers will bring you into the facility.
     The tourist season in Ani is quite short; it snows from early November through April.  You should plan your trip between May and Mid-September.

Filed under:  Trip Ideas, Religious Tourism, Eastern Turkey
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