Tripology Travel Experts Blog: Italy

Il Masseria di Frantoio--Puglia agritourism at its best

by CelebrateTravelInc, 10/28/2009 14:10
Destination: Italy
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A ‘masseria’ is a kind of fortified farmhouse whose purpose was to protect the landowners and surrounding peasants by becoming a self-sustaining community if under attack by invaders.

Our masseria, Il Masseria de Frantoio (frantoio means ‘stone olive mill’ in Italian) is only a few kilometers from Ostuni, the White City of Puglia (more on Puglia in another article; this region is in the boot of Italy, and I predict it will be the next ‘Tuscany’ once discovered by tourists). The olive cellar is a massive natural cave housing several stone olive presses and an assortment of their finished products.

Armando and his wife Rosalba own these 72 hectares (approx 150 acres) of organically produced olives, fruits, and vegetables. Directed by son-in-law Silvio, their farm is aggressively intent on nourishing the earth while maximizing its production of high-nutrient produce.

On a tour of the farm in a 1940s Fiat, Silvio explained the difference between high and low quality production. Not all extra virgin olive oils have similar quality; some farmers wait for the olives to fall off the trees and harvest by machine off the ground. Silvio said this produced poor quality, but some farmers employed this method to achieve higher production with fewer workers. Il Masseria di Frantoio harvests directly from the trees when the olive is at its peak ripeness and has maximum nutrients and antioxidants. This method is more labor-intensive, and the yield is lower. They sacrifice volume for quality, but the taste and nutritional differences are apparent. We were treated to an olive oil tasting during an exquisite dinner at Il Masseria di Frantoio (available by pre-request), and we indulged our tastebuds with their five varieties of olive oils.

A flock of free range chickens produce fresh eggs. There are rabbits, doves, peacocks, and even a goat. Silvio is also trying to resurrect a nearly extinct Pugliese breed of dog. Silvio takes his stewardship of land and animals quite seriously.

Il Masseria di Frantoio produces five kinds of olive oils, four of which are D.O.P. (a certification akin to D.O.C. for wines). Olive oil tastings in the afternoon allow you to fully appreciate the quality of a boutique olive oil farm vs the mass-produced operations.

Our cozy apartment in the midst of this organic farm comprised an equipped kitchen/dining room with deep fireplace to warm a chilly night. Our fireplace was already set with paper and kindling, so a match quickly started a romantic blaze. A nearby basket of firewood kept the fire going all evening.

Our spacious bedroom with vaulted ceiling had a gorgeous armoire and other lovely appointments. And a modest but well supplied bathroom completed our quarters.

I made a hot cup of tea and sat by the fire, drinking in the ambience of this delightful masseria.

Included breakfast is rife with the bounty of this farm, and dinner at the masseria can be arranged with a little advance notice. I strongly recommend you dine in—what a treat. For those who think of Italian food as nothing more than pasta and bread, this gourmet dinner will awaken your senses. Every mouthful is a delight. I can truly say that it was probably the best dinner I’ve enjoyed—anywhere—in at least the last few years. No pasta in sight either. Just simple food, fresh from the farm, elegantly and lovingly prepared.

The softly fading glow of sunlight envelopes me, and the silence of 1500 year-old olive trees only sharpens the distant sounds of cooing doves, cackling hens, and the bleating of a goat. Peace reigns, and I am in harmony with the eternal rhythm of Puglia. This is truly agritourism at its best.

With only eight apartments at Il Masseria di Frantoio, I considered myself fortunate to have discovered this special corner of the world. Email me at Celebrate-Travel, Inc. to help you decide if these accommodations—or Puglia itself—will fit your needs.

Filed under:  gourmet, Italy, Puglia, Ostuni, Eco-tourism, Bari, wine tasting, wine, agritourism
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