Taormina: The jewel of Sicily

Charming, scenic, and picturesque were the first words to come to my mind. But the village is not just a pretty face; it has a sturdy foundation in history and a proud soul. As my Taormina taxi driver told me, ‘when I go on holiday, I carry Taormina in my heart’.

I arrived in Taormina at dusk after a long drive through the Sicilian countryside. I was tired, sleepy, and frankly getting cranky, eager to settle into my Taormina accommodations.

But as I entered Giardino Naxos, a coastal town below Taormina, all fatigue evaporated. I climbed the hill to Taormina with mounting excitement. Twisting skinny roads with panoramic, dramatic views of the unfolding landscape greeted every switchback. With such riveting vistas, you might easily miss the catacombs and ‘tombas’ silently lining the road.

On my first night, a full moon spotlighted the fiery molten lava streaming down the slopes of Mt Etna as I gaped from the terrazzo near the Porte Messina.

Quaint and colorful shops capture the imagination with the indigenous, hand-painted ‘ceramiche’ pottery. One delectable trattoria after another competes for your tastebuds.

Friendliness and helpfulness are the hallmarks of Sicilians, and this is very much in evidence in Taormina. One tourist didn’t realize that her handbag (with passport, money, and credit cards) had slipped off her arm to the ground until a flower boy retrieved it and ran after her to return it.

Wednesdays feature Taormina’s local outdoor market  selling fresh-picked ripe produce and handmade crafts. I gazed longingly at one stall selling handcarved wooden utensils—beautiful spoons and ladles—but I had to pass as I had packed only a small carry-on bag for this particular trip. For me, there is always a ‘next time’.

You must climb the steps to Madonna di Rocca. A small chapel and cross honor the Blessed Virgin Mary who has protected Taormina from invaders for eons. Even non-believers will appreciate the incredible views from this perch, high above sea level. Climb higher to the fortress of Taormina for even more amazing views. This strategic outpost allowed Taormina to spot potential marauders from as far away as Messina and beyond, giving the locals plenty of time to thwart any attacks.

This spot is also the endpoint for the Stazione Via Cruces (the 14 Stations of the Cross) which begin a thousand steps below off the main road of Taormina town.

From Taormina, climb higher to the little village of Castelmola. You have to park in the Piazza San Giorgio and proceed on foot as the narrow streets, steps, and sharp turns can only accommodate pedestrians.

I walked to the tiny Piazza di Santo Nicolo di Bari. A napping dog glanced up lazily, and a farmer selling vegetables from his cart tried to catch my eye. But my attention was focused on the 14^th century chapel where daily Mass was just finishing, as it had for centuries. Two elderly women were the only parishioners, and their responses to the priest’s prayers were honed by years of worship. History here is not mothballed; it is alive. As the priest closed the Mass, I re-entered the sunlight of Castelmola and descended back to Taormina.