Tripology Travel Experts Blog: Palermo

Training from Palermo to Messina, Sicily and on to Reggio Calabria

From my Palermo hotel, it was a quick 15 min walk or 10 € cab ride to the stazione where I boarded my prompt ‘express’ train to Messina.

The three-hour train ride zipped by. I was almost disappointed to arrive in Messina so snappily because that coastal route is really quite charming.

Only three cars, no primo classe, and no dining car, yet this train was an 11 € sightseeing bonanza.

As Palermo faded from view, a pastoral scene of orange groves, olive orchards, quaint villages, and grazing cattle and sheep on my right competed for my attention with the sparkling Tyrrhenian Sea on my left. Small fishing boats, weather-faded in their once-brilliant colors, lined the beaches, and gentle waves lapped the shore.

Once in Messina, we had an hour to wait for our 15 minute/3.30 € traghetto ferry to Reggio Calabria. The sea was such a brilliant hue of marine blue that it resembled an idealized painting. The hour passed quickly watching boats glide in and out of the harbor.

In Reggio Calabria on mainland Italy, we picked up our rental car (free upgrade to an Alfa Romeo—nice!) and headed north into Calabria.

All that beautiful scenery somehow reminded us we were hungry, so one of our first stops was the Auto Grill for a quick bite to eat. For those not familiar with Italy’s justifiably famous and unique Auto Grills, a quick explanation is in order. First of all, what they are not: these are not dirty food/gas joints where you would only stop out of sheer desperation. I haven’t found a US equivalent of Italy’s Auto Grills. Conveniently situated along Italy’s highways, the Auto Grills are a one-stop everything: auto fuel, bathroom stop, restaurant, souvenir shop, and grocery store. I always find here the best prices on handmade pasta to take home—shapes that I cannot find in the US. And as every Italian knows: different-shaped pasta taste different.

There were no vegan panini ready-made in the deli, but no problem. The helpful fellow pointed to twenty one-gallon jars of various vegetables from which he would custom-make my panino. Hard to choose, but I finally settled on carcofes (artichokes), a smattering of aubergines, pomodori salad, and green olive paste spread on fragrantly fresh Calabresi bread. He grilled my panino and presto, the most delectable sandwich I’d eaten in years. My only regret is in not buying two panini.

This particular Auto Grill also had a Calabresi wine and cheese gift shop and a lovely assortment of affordable clay vases and hand painted ceramiche. At the door was an authentic Calabresi hand cart, gaily painted in traditional colors and designs. Truly an enchanting and energizing stop.

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